How To Customize Your PC Case & Achieve Professional Results - THG.RU

Introduction

Introduction

Whether you subscribe to the belief that customizing your case is an art or that it is a science there is no denying that PC «Case Modding» has become increasingly popular over the last year, while the demand for customized PC cases continues to grow. In my previous THG article, How To Select The Right Case we touched on the topic of case modification, and based on the number of questions we received, it was obvious that this was a topic about which our readers wanted to know more. According to Michael Chang of Directron, «Case modification’s growth and popularity has exploded over the last fourteen months, and the number, as well as the types of customizations, continues to increase at a torrid pace.»

Rather than re-hash the same old information that you can easily find on a variety of web sites, we chose to take a fresh THG approach to this topic by asking questions and seeking answers from a professional who makes his living painting and modifying (modding) cases.

Steve Horch, the owner and operator of Crazypaint Custom Finishes, agreed to sit down with us for an exclusive interview and share some of his thoughts, insights, and secrets on the subject of case modding. In addition to this in-depth interview and discussion, we asked Steve to prepare a detailed tutorial on a case modification that you can do yourself and achieve the kind of professional results that are normally limited to the most skilled of case modders. We found our discussion with Steve to be very candid, and to offer some exceptional insight into his area of expertise.

Before we get into our interview with Steve, he asked us to make it very clear that case modding can be hazardous to your health and safety. Many of the tools and items that are used in the modifications of PC cases can cause injury, especially if you are a novice and not skilled in using them.

Proper safety precautions are a must when working with many of these items. By proper safely precautions, we mean the use of a stable work surface, goggles, respirators for painting, and, of course, proper power tool etiquette. Safety should always be first and foremost on your mind when working with any power tools and while attempting the majority of these case modifications. If you lack experience using power tools and the like, you should seek assistance from someone who has experience with such things; or you could consider purchasing a pre-modified case and/or components. Pre-modified cases and components are available from a variety of sources, including Steve Horch’s own company, Crazypaint Custom Finishes.

As a further disclaimer, neither THG nor Crazypaint will be held responsible for damage or injury that might occur from the use or misuse of the information in this article. Use of any of the information in this article is at your own risk, and readers under age 18 should have parental permission before attempting to modify any computer case and/or attempting to use power tools.

With all of that said, on to the interview!

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch Of Crazypaint Custom Finishes

THG — Steve, thanks for taking the time to sit down with us to share your insights about PC case modding.

SH — I have been a big fan of Tom’s Hardware Guide for several years, and I am excited about having the chance to talk about case modding and how excited I am about it.

THG — Tell us a little bit about yourself and give us some background on how you became involved in the case modding business.

SH — I am a professional painter and I have been involved in the painting business for 17 years. I am 34 years old, and have been painting things for most of my life. As my mother is so fond of telling people, there is very little around my house that I didn’t paint when I was growing up. I am a Gold Certified PPG painter who learned my painting skills and earned my stripes in the automotive industry. In addition to the painting and modification of computers, I also do custom painting and air brush work on a variety of things, such as race cars and custom motorcycles, just to name a few. Currently, I have been focused on what I think of as the «art of case modding,» and I have been pushing the limits to see what is possible with computer cases. I believe that I was quoted previously in another THG article as saying that I «fell into» painting computers by accident, and that about sums it up.

In addition to computer painting, Steve still finds time to handle special request paint jobs when he is able to make time. In this picture, Steve is painting an ARCA Stock Car that is racing this season in the ARCA series. As is the case with this paint job, most of his customers are referred to him because of the quality of his work.

THG — What do you mean when you say that you «fell into it by accident?»

SH — Well, I never really set out to become a painter who paints computer cases. I was looking at my own computer one day and my standard beige PC case was so boring it was enough to drive me crazy! At the time I painted my first computer case, about three years ago, I was not aware of anyone who owned a case that was any color other than beige. Since I don’t come from a computer background, I was a little appreh ensive of disassembling a computer and case, in an attempt to paint it. Once I did some checking around, I found that the worst possible result would be that I would have to buy a new case for my computer. So, I disassembled my first case and painted it. Looking back now, I can honestly say that the results were primitive by my standards today, but it was a starting point. I took this case that I painted and put it in the office of our shop, and when people saw it, they liked it and wanted to know if I could paint something like that for them.

I went to a local computer show and purchased a bunch of cheap computer cases to practice on in order to perfect my computer case painting technique. After painting those, my confidence grew and I liked the results, so I started to experiment further by painting monitors, mice, keyboards, UPSs, scanners, and printers. At this point, I was only painting the computer stuff as a hobby for family and friends, but as more people saw it, the number of requests for me to paint more computer products continued to grow. In the summer of 1997, I established Crazypaint Custom Finishes as a premier source for custom painted computer products, and I launched the crazypaint.com web site about two years ago.

A complete system painted to match has to include the case, monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Most people like their system better when all of the stuff matches, but it does add a lot of extra investment in time and materials in order to get it right. Steve just sold this system to Excal from WSBN.COM, an Intenet based radio station, after he saw this case on display at the Ultra Unreal LAN Tournment.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — As you well know, case manufacturers are starting to get into the act by offering painted computer cases. Of course, the level of customization and painting design complexity are not even close to what you are doing, but that said, when compared to the cases you paint, why do these other painted cases look so amateurish?

SH — The answer is in the paint! — Most case manufacturers are using alkaloid enamel base paints with a matte finish. All of my painting is done with PPG automobile finish products that are the same type of paint that are used for automobiles. By using this type of paint, you can clear coat the finish to get the highly glossed finish that most people find so attractive. Case manufacturers are in the business of making cases, not painting them, so the quality of the workmanship and their choice of paint products can be described as functional, but fairly unattractive. Some high-end PC resellers claim that they are using automobile paint to paint their cases, and while this may be so, their end results aren’t even close to the quality grade of the paint used for your car.

My advice to readers who are considering purchasing a custom painted case over the Internet is to make sure that you are looking at high-resolution pictures and do some research on your own by asking a lot of questions before you buy. I don’t even think that the pictures that we took for this article do justice to the paint job. This is due to the limits of digital photography, nothing more. A good example of this has been seen for years in custom car magazines: you will see some impressive paint work in such magazines, but the truth is, it always looks ten times better in person. Much of this is because neither digital cameras nor film can capture the gloss, texture, and true color of the paint used.

A good tip when looking at the finish of a case is to look at the reflection in the clear topcoat. The clearer the reflection, the higher the gloss. I always like to point out to people that my paint and clear coat on PC cases are so reflective that you can hold a newspaper 12 inches away from my cases and still read the print. Of course, this also is a good way to judge any paint job that has a glossy finish. In my experience, the work of painters who don’t take pride in their work will not pass this test.

The design of this case was a very simple design for a Harley Davidson lover who wanted to extend the love of his Harley motorcycle on to his computer. The logos were official, purchased logos that were placed on the case prior to finishing the case. This picture captures the incredible glossy finish that can only be achieved by using professional materials.

THG — Do you recommend that folks go to their local auto body supply store and purchase automotive style paints and attempt to paint their case themselves?

SH — NEVER! And here is why. Modern urethane finishes contain iso cyanate, which is a byproduct of cyanide, and exposure to these products can damage your central nervous system and your liver. Only professionals who have the proper training and protective gear should apply these type of products. Please take my advice. I have been painting with this stuff for 17 years. I know most people like to save money, but you will not achieve the results that you are looking for by using this stuff without the proper experience and training. Besides that, the chemicals can be hazardous if not handled correctly.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — If I am considering painting my system using spray paint, what are the important things that I need to know?

SH — If you want to achieve the best results, first… be prepared to take your time and do the proper preparation work. The amount of time that you take prepping the case should be about four times what it will take you to paint the case. In order to achieve the best results, you will need to completely disassemble the case. This is where a lot of folks go wrong, by trying to paint the case while it is assembled. From my own mistakes, I’ve learned that it is impossible to cover all of the case without taking it apart. Next, the case needs to be cleaned properly with a wax and grease remover or equivalent cleaner to remove the contaminants found on most cases prior to priming the case for painting. To remove the texture that is found on many cases, I suggest sanding the case using 320 grit sand paper. Once the case is clean and sanded, the next important step is to use primer and prime the case prior to painting. Priming the case allows the paint to properly adhere. This is important, because if the paint does not stick properly, it will peel or crack, and delaminating of the paint will occur.

When attempting to paint your computer case yourself using aerosol paint, these are the most important tips that will allow you to achieve the best results.

Prep to finish — pre clean thoroughly for grease and wax, and abrade (sand) the surface of the case.
Choose a well-ventilated area with no wind for your painting area — make sure that paint over spray doesn’t go where it is not supposed to go, and cover everything but the PC with a drop cloth.
Prime the case using spray can primer — follow the instructions on the can.
Follow the manufacturer’s painting recommendations on the label to achieve the best results.
Always allow the proper amount of drying time between coats.
Apply the paint in thin coats (Several thin coats with proper drying time are always better than one or two heavy coats!)
Take your time during the spraying process and keep your hand moving.
Don’t be afraid to be artistic, as time and sand paper can fix most mistakes that you can make. Some of the best ideas that I have come up with were attempts to be artistic. You never know what you might discover!

With this case, I experimented with using green in a more saturated color and combining it with the marbleizer behind it, to try and achieve a look that was different from other cases that I had painted. The Flame design continues to be the most requested item to be painted on cases. Using the marbleizer finish, it is possible to achieve some pretty wild effects that can allow your artistic side to run free.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — When you paint more than just the computer case, don’t you have deal with a lot of voided warranty issues when devices fail?

SH — Well, of course, the warranty coverage is up to the company that sells the product. In most cases, painting the product will void the warranty. This is why, prior to choosing to paint your optical drives, as an example, it is important that you understand that if your DVD-ROM drive fails, the manufacturer may not replace it under warranty because it has been painted. Companies that offer computer painting and computer product painting, on the other hand, usually offer a warranty for the parts that they paint.

In the case of Crazypaint, I offer a warranty on all of the products that I paint. For example, if I paint a DVD-ROM drive and the warranty on the drive is one year, I will have spare products in stock for replacement for one year from your date of purchase of the product painting. For warranty coverage, the customer simply would ship me the defective product. I would then pull the faceplate off the painted (defective) drive, unpack a new replacement drive, reinstall the painted faceplate onto the replacement drive, and ship it back to the customer. As a result, I have the defective drive that once again has a beige faceplate, and I can return this plain drive for replacement. This is why I recommend that if you are going to paint your optical drives, first locate a drive that has a faceplate that can be easily removed without voiding the warranty.

Since painted optical drives are important to the overall look in matching the color scheme of your system, you might want to consider purchasing a spare drive of the same type in case you are worried about warranty and replacement. However, it is my opinion that if you use a resource such as Tom’s Hardware Guide and choose quality components, failures are not normally an issue. Painting the floppy drive and optical drives really does add to the custom look of the case. Personally speaking, I consider this to be one of the factors that allows you to tell the well-painted cases from the poorly painted ones.

After seeing this Super Case in a local shop, I wanted to see what could be done with an even lower cost case. The Super Case turned out to be a pretty easy case to work with and the marbleizer, as well as the pin striping, showed this case well and gave it the ‘pop’ that I was looking for. Due to the fact that I used a lower cost case, I was able to shave a few additional dollars off the selling price of this case. The size of this case is still a little cramped compared to other cases that I normally paint.

THG — Why do you think that so many cases use optical drives and floppy drives that are not painted?

SH — That is a good question! I feel that in order to achieve the ultimate look for a case, the drives need to be painted. I look at some designs and am curious as to why they didn’t paint the drive faceplates. Leaving the faceplates unpainted really gives your overall design a very unfinished look, and makes people think you stopped short of finishing it. Painting the faceplates of both your optical drives and floppy drives isn’t hard to do, if you choose drives with removable faceplates. You also have to wonder if some companies don’t believe in the drive brands that they use in their systems because they are afraid of or don’t want to deal with the possible warranty issues. The key is to take your time and remove the faceplates slowly, and make sure that you don’t break the locking tabs in the process. Some companies will sell you replacement faceplates for your drives, for a price. Of course, this varies from company to company, but it is worth considering.

Again, don’t try to mask off the drive and paint the faceplate while it is still on the drive. This is a common mistake that people make, and the paint over spray can destroy your drive. Once again, you need to pay attention to proper prep work and prime everything before painting it. There continues to be the common misconception that you don’t have to prime plastic. In fact, paint will stick to plastic, but these drives get hot, and excessive heat will cause polymers to be released from the plastic. Primer paint creates a barrier between the paint and these polymers to allow for proper adhesion. This is no different from when you are painting the front of your cases, which, in most cases, are also made out of plastic. When we talk about heat, I am not necessarily talking about the drives themselves, but the heat that is generated within the case that bleeds through and around these devices which can cause adhesion issues without proper prep work. While it might be easier to use regular or off-the-shelf drives, I think we have pointed out that it is something that you don’t want to do if you want the most professional look possible.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — Right now, what do you consider the most popular case mod to be?

SH — I think that right now lighted windows are all the rage. I have been doing lighted windows for a little over three years, but only in the last couple of months has it really started to catch on. Three years ago when I started doing windows in cases, it was a big gamble doing a window and getting it to look good, but now it is better because the kits have improved. In fact, I have been producing my own custom window kits (that I sell on my web-site) that I have designed to provide a variety of effects that folks are looking for.

THG — Why do you think that lighted case windows have only started to catch on now?

SH — Wider availability, for one thing, has led to people seeing more cases that have the windows. People are now able to buy the window kits from an increasing number of sources, which has led to more people giving this mod a try. You can tell it is popular when companies like Chieftec and Antec are now selling pre-made windowed case side panels separately for people who have already purchased their cases. In addition, companies are starting to make cases available in colors other than the standard beige, black, and sliver. This is just an example of another evolution in the marketing of case modding to the public at large. This indicates the wider level of acceptance that case modding is receiving.

The neon lighting in this case isn’t really bright enough to show up well in a picture, and this is a good example why there has been an increased movement toward using cold cathode lighting: it emits more light with a better color cast than neon does.

THG — You touched on the lighting behind the windows, do you think that the lighting effects have progressed as well?

SH — In the first case mods that I saw that featured lighting, most people were using neon lighting. Neon lighting, in my opinion, does not put out enough light in the bigger cases, which isn’t a problem if you are not really concerned about being able to see inside the case and you are strictly going for the effect. But the use of cold cathode lighting can really light up the entire case. Naturally, this has presented a new problem, which is that many folks who are lighting up the inside of their case don’t spend the kind of time working on the cable management, which then leads to a sloppy look inside the case. One of the biggest tips that I can give anyone considering a window and lighting, is to spend time working on your cable management strategy. I like to try to find as many innovative ways as possible to hide the cables to give the case a very polished look. Consider using wire looms, rounded cables, cable ties, and hidden areas of the case to hide cables and make it look more polished. I use a lot of Chieftec and Antec cases and like to use the areas behind the drive bays and the area behind the power supply to hide cables and get them out of the way. Another important tip is do not use cables that are any longer than you need. Getting that impressive cabling look like a Crazypaint, Voodoo, or Alienware PC is possible with a little hard work, and if you have a window with a light, everyone can enjoy the fruits of your efforts.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — You talked about case windows and window design. Can you talk a little more about windows in general?

SH — Windows are an interesting subject, as this is one of the areas that continue to get a lot of attention. Windows are now available in a variety of colors and designs. These designs go beyond the standard square, oval, or circle windows that you normally see. For example, on many of the Antec and Chieftec cases, I custom cut the window to go around the handle that is embedded into the side of the case panel. Etching designs on the windows is also popular, and you can even get the stick-on clear designs to stick inside the window. Directron, for example, offers a variety of designs that you can put on the inside or outside of your window. I have used some of these and have found the effect to be good, but it left me wanting to take it to the next level. In my opinion, the next level is to cut the side panel of the case in the shape of a design and cut it out that way. Once you have the design cut out of the side panel, you can then affix acrylic or lexan to the back of the panel and then place your lighting behind it.

If done correctly, it would be possible to do something like a paint splatter or almost any abstract design that you can think of. It is a challenge to cut a design out of the side panel, but again, it all comes down to experimentation and creating a new look.

THG — Do you think that case modding has gone too far into the main stream?

SH — Not yet, but with bigger companies getting involved, it is coming out of the basement and garage. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, since folks who are really into this will be pushing the creative envelope to find new and interesting things that the big companies are not doing. One important thing that potential case modders should note is that the cost for failure is still relatively small, meaning that, in most cases, the worst thing that can happen is that you have to purchase a new case. With so many low cost cases available, it is easy to purchase a cheap case to practice on before going for broke on your expensive case. I still see a great number of ideas for case mods all over the web, and I think you will continue to see people experiment, but with the manufacturers getting involved, some mods that were once reserved for the experienced (like windows and lighting) will become more available to the general public in pre-built systems.

THG — What is your opinion of purchased pre-modded and painted cases?

SH — Well, of course, I have a little more vested interest in seeing folks purchase painted cases from my company, but I think there will always be people that want to purchase a turn key system and those who want to build the turn key system. If you are considering the purchase of a pre-modded and custom painted system, take your time and inspect the work. In my many searches on the web, I have found it difficult to examine much of the work, and to me, this makes the purchase difficult. You really have no idea of what you are going to end up with until it arrives on your front door step. Although these customized cases can be expensive, it is the best way to maximize your value.

For example, I always tell people that if you have the space, purchase a case that has more room than you think you will ever need. This way you can re-build your PC in the same case many times and you should always have plenty of room. Quality, of course, is important, but I have seen some vendors and web sites that are not paying as much attention to detail as they should be and are charging a premium price for it.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — Can you tell us about one of your favorite cases that you have done?

The AMD/Pyrinex/Ultra Unreal system is a favorite custom case that Steve found very rewarding to create. This case was commissioned by Abi Singh of Pyrinex as first prize in the Ultra Unreal tournament. It was built to the maximum, making it an exceptional system with a customized look to match.

SH — Well, I have done so many special paint projects that it is always difficult to choose just one, but of course the high-profile, commissioned jobs are always the most rewarding. Each and every case is special in its own way. I don’t think that I have ever really painted two cases that were the same. Recently, I was commissioned by Pyrinex to create a one-of-a-kind, special case for the Ultra Unreal LAN party. Abi Singh at Pyrinex asked me to take the new Antec Performance Plus 880 case and create a one-of-a-kind Unreal case for him to build a system in for the first prize winner. This case featured a window, blue cold cathode lighting, and warrior graphics, with an incredible black and silver finish. I am always working on something special beyond what I consider the ‘standard’ cases that folks order from my web site. The only limit as to what is possible is the imagination of the people commissioning the work.

From this angle, we can see how it looked before the components were installed into the system. The system featured a window with a new style of chrome trim that Steve has been experimenting with for a few months. Since AMD was a title sponsor of the event, Steve was authorized to use the AMD logo on the case. It should be noted however, that using company logos on cases without proper authorization can present potential trademark and copyright infringement problems. You will want to first be sure your logo isn’t trademarked or copyrighted by anyone else before painting a logo of any type on your case.

THG’s Exclusive Interview With Steve Horch, Continued

THG — Do you have a favorite case brand or style that you prefer to work with?

SH — It is possible to paint almost any case. I do tend to try to avoid painting cheaper cases. I don’t like to do cheap cases, because I think that people tend to get dissatisfied with them more quickly, and not because they don’t like the paint job. More often than not, the case is too small for upgrades, or it is cheaply constructed and doesn’t hold up well over time. Personally, I like the Chieftec Dragon, Scorpio, and Matrix series mid-tower cases. The new Antec Performance Plus cases are exceptional, as well. My best-seller continues to be the Enlight 7237 mid-tower. The 7237 has been a big hit because it is a good size case, is well constructed, and is fairly inexpensive. I like to stick with the mid-tower or full-tower cases because they provide the best balance of size and expansion room.

THG — Do you have any favorite pre-modded items that are easy for people to use and install that are making their way into your designs?

SH — I really like the new Antec lighted 80mm fans. I just got my hands on the new Antec Tri-Color lighted fans. After looking at the blue colored lighted fans for a while, the new tri-color fans look even cooler, and they are fairly easy to install. Perhaps they don’t output as much light as you would like, but here is a tip that people will like: use a case like the Chieftec Dragon series or the Antec Performance Plus series, and then use the blue lighted fans in the front of the case behind the front grill. You will get a really great looking glow that you can see through the front grill of the case. This is an easy mod that doesn’t take a lot of investment, but the Antec lighted fans tend to be a little on the expensive side.

Speaking of fans, like everyone else, I have been experimenting with various case fans in an attempt to find those fans that still move a lot of air, but are fairly quiet. If you don’t want to go with lighted fans, the Enermax UC-8FAB-B series fans are available in a variety of colors and include a good looking gold fan grill, and, best of all, the US-8FAB-B features a manual adjustable fan speed control, which allow you to set the RPMs from 1000 RPM to 3000 RPM. I like to use these fans in the back of the case, where Antec lighted fans don’t gain you anything because you already have plenty of cold cathode lighting in the bottom of the case. If I am not concerned about the look and I am just trying to reduce noise, I like the Vantec Stealth fans, although they don’t move as many CFMs as I would like. The Enermax Ultra-Cool thermo controlled fans feature heat sensors that allow the fans to spin faster as the heat inside the case rises. The position of the heat sensor is very important with these fans, but they, too, can decrease a lot of fan noise. The only down side to the Vantec Stealth and the Enermax Ultra-Cool is that both of them are black, which gives them the appearance that I am not normally looking for.

THG — I think you have provided a lot of good tips and information for this article. Is there anything else that you would like to add?

SH — I think case modding is an excellent way to express yourself. Anyone can have a beige ‘eyesore,’ but why not find ways to make the outside of your computer more customized and reflect more of your personality? Creativity is the key! I believe that some of the best mods have not even been thought of yet. New ideas such as displays and fan bus controls, for example, are just starting to arrive, and I think the best are yet to come. If it wasn’t for innovative ideas, we wouldn’t even have computers at all!

THG — Thanks for your time. We would like to have you come back again and show us how to do another case mod project.

SH — Sure, I would be happy to work on another project for a future article, if the readers are interested in it.

How To Install A Window Kit In Your PC

We asked Steve Horch to prepare a special «How To» project that we could show you. In this article, Steve will show you how to install a typical off-the-shelf side window kit and achieve professional results using common items that you have around your house.

When we started to prepare this article, Steve explained to us that most side window kits typically come with one sheet of paper with some vague instructions that really don’t help you get the job done. Steve told us, «If you are experienced, the instructions that are included with most window kits are enough, but the problem is that if you have not installed one before, the lack of pictures leaves a considerable amount to the imagination. «The first window kit that I installed took me several hours due to problems with the rubber seal that they included with the kit. It just didn’t fit well.»

To begin, Steve asked us to order a typical window kit from a dealer. We called Michael Chang at Directron and he shipped us their Clear Acrylic Window Kit, which is available in three colors. The dimensions of the window measure 11.125″ (28.2cm) x 8.69″ (22.1cm). The window itself is made of 100% acrylic and uses a rubber window seal during the installation process. Michael explained to us that this continues to be one of the most popular case modding items in his inventory. However, the included instruction page led to more than one phone call to Directron’s technical support department.

Before we get started, you will need to gather the following tools for the process:

A Number 2 lead pencil with a good eraser
A yard stick (a ruler will work, but a yard stick works best)
Tape measure
A roll of one-inch masking tape
A few sheets of newspaper
3M quarter-inch fine line tape
Jig saw w/36 tooth or finer blade
Drill w/ 5/8″ drill bit
Scissors
Exacto knife
Sand paper — 320 grit
Large towel
Cleaning rag
A cleaner to clean the outside of the case prior to the window install
Protective glasses to protect your eyes during cutting & drilling steps

Steve wanted to keep the use of exotic tools to a minimum. So, he focused on tools and items that are commonly found in most households, and, even if you don’t have these items, buying them will not send you to the poor house.

Steve pointed out that one of the first mistakes that many people make is using a Dremel tool to handle the cutting of the case. A Dremel tool is not the best choice for cutting a window of this size, as you must have a steady hand, and the results often times are not as clean as cutting with a jig saw. If you are going to buy a jig saw specifically for this project, you won’t need a professional series jig saw, the typical off the shelf jig saw will do the job just fine. As far as the jig saw is concerned, it is more important to select the right blade than to buy a really expensive jig saw.

How To Install A Window Kit In Your PC, Continued

In the picture below you see what comes in the typical window kit package. As you can see, there isn’t much in the package and the one page of instructions offers very little help to get the window kit from the package into the side of your case.